The Church of Provenzano in Siena
Posted on 19. Jul, 2010 by admin in Archive, Culture
The Mannerist Church of Santa Maria di Provenzano or simply la Chiesa di Provenzano is one of the oldest buildings Siena constructed after the after conquest of the city by the Medici family.
In the area of the city which today corresponds to the Contrada of the Giraffe, we find it following Vicolo del Fontino, a typical Sienese covered street or chiasso where recently a 16th century well was rediscovered, evidently for the use of the pilgrims who were directed towards the so-called ‘Casa dei Miracoli’ or ‘house of miracles’ in Provenzano.
This was where Provenzano Salvani lived; a Sienese military captain, Ghibelline and victor of the Battle of Montaperti (1260) and often cited by Dante Alighieri.
The legend which has been passed down through time is that on the facade of a house in this poor area of town there was a glazed terracotta statue of a Pietà (the Madonna with the dying Christ on her knees), placed there by Saint Catherine of Siena.
In the mid 1500′s, precisely on the 2 July 1552, a Spanish soldier — perhaps for a bet — tried to fire against the statue but his weapon exploded, killing him but leaving the bust of the Madonna intact apart from the arms which were destroyed. This event was attributed as being miraculous and to commemorate this, the Palio of the 2 July has been run every year since 1656.
A sanctuary was also built to house this miraculous image and the construction works started around 1595 with the foundations being laid on the 24 October.
Ferdinando I de’ Medici entrusted the works to don Damiano Schifardini, a monk of the Camaldolesi Congregation, who from Florence started to coordinate the commencement of the works and design the entire project. Given that Schifardini was in Florence, it was the architect Flaminio del Turco who took care of the on-site works and was assisted by Don Giovanni de’ Medici for the installation of the cupola or dome. The works terminated in 1604. The Basilica of Provenzano was solemnly consecrated on the 23 October 1611 by placing the terracotta statue of the Virgin on the main alter.
The façade — imposing and distinct with its strong chiaroscuro play of colours — creates an impressive entry to the majestic and varied inner church dominated by the main altar decorated with a rich and ornate tabernacle containing the revered image of the Madonna to which the Palio of the 2 July is dedicated.
According the Regulations of the Palio di Siena, «The Drappellone or cover for the Palio of the 2 July is solemnly carried to the Church of S. Maria in Provenzano after the general rehearsal [...] and it remains there until it is raised on the Carroccio or decorative medieval cart for the Historical Parade or Corteo Storico».
This is presented to the winning contrada who return with the prize — commonly known as “cencio or rag”, to the church to sing the Te Deum in thanks.
The columns which sustain the elegant octagonal dome also bear flags which are placed there to represent sacred vows. Particularly notable is the flag bearing the coat of arms of the Medici House, which could be seen above the Forte di S. Barbara (Fortezza Medicea) until the French invasion of 1799.
Jeri Spurling
Apr 2nd, 2011
Thank you for this informative description of the origin of this church. Of the churches in Siena that I visited, this one was most impressive to me: just the right scale and tastefully massed and adorned. The light from the dome and the size of the interior lend to better worship in my view. Wish I could find some interior pictures of this church.