The Palio dell’Assunta: Siena’s great event
Posted on 16. Aug, 2010 by admin in Archive, Events
In the early afternoon of the 16 August, just as the peals of the Sunto — the huge bell at the top of the Mangia Tower — are heard, the flag-wavers start their elegant, rhythmical dance. The protagonists or “characters”, wonderfully adorned in costumes jealously coveted in museums, form a historical procession known as the “passeggiata storica” which re-enacts the pomp of the 1400′s when the Palio was first held. The bells continue to toll for the entire duration of the procession.
The end is heralded by the increasing pace of the bells. After a final and masterful demonstration of flag-waving by the seventeen standard-bearers, a firecracker announces the entry of the horses and their jockeys from the Entrone (the courtyard of the Town hall). Each jockey is given a bull-whip with which he can hit and obstruct the opponents as he wishes.
The order of entry to the starting block (indicated by thick ropes) is made by a draw and cried out by the starter. The start of the race, known as “mossa” is signalled by a complicated contraption (il verrocchio) which keeps a series of starting ropes taut. The rider who finds himself in a good starting position has a marked advantage over his opponents.
The dangerous corners of San Martino and Casato represent the most difficult moments of the race. When the 10th horse gallops into the starting place (whenever its jockey decides), the race starts and the first ropes are lowered and this is when the three rounds of the square start; the end is signalled by another firecracker. The one kilometre long race three times around the square is normally completed in a minute and 15 seconds. The only important thing about the Palio is to win; to come second is considered the worst performance as no praise is given to who comes close to winning.
The fist horse to reach the finish line is considered as winner, with or without its jockey (finishing without a jockey is known as “scosso“). As soon as the fist horse passes the finish line — indicated by a flag just in front of the judges’ tribune — there is an explosion of joy and celebration. A procession of the rejoicing winners slowly makes its way to the cathedral.
A raucous Te Deum is sung accompanied with the rolling of drums which signals the start of a long day of spontaneous celebration throughout the city. All the lights in the Contrada that has won the coveted Drappellone are turned on and the celebrations continue well into autumn to conclude with the “Victory Supper” in which the horse has the place of honour at the table.
Celebrations never ends in the Contrade; every week starting in April, different neighbourhoods in turn are decorated and a series of festivities and ceremonies are organised according to the age-old tradition of each. Time in Siena is measured by the Palio which is woven into the very fabric of daily life with its dates, symbols and customs repeated every year by all of its inhabitants.
Paradoxically, the Palio is not just a horse race, even if this could seem absurd. Tommaso Landolfi gravely said: “The Palio marks our destiny and furthermore, for those who so believe, it marks our souls too”.
Here is the video of Palio dell’Assunta 2010, the winner is Contrada Tortuca:
If you would like to see the Palio next year and you are trying to find a charming accommodation in Siena, book a room at Palazzo Ravizza!
