Siena and preparing for the Palio
Posted on 14. Aug, 2010 by admin in Archive, Events
On the 13 August, four days before the Palio dell’Assunta is held, the ancient ceremony or “tratta” takes place which involves a draw to assign the horses (known as barberi) to the ten winning Contrade.
The horse assigned to each Contrada “is considered as destiny“: under no circumstances can the horse be changed even if the jockey can be chosen at liberty. Piazza del Campo is transformed for the occasion; stalls and tribunes are set up along the racecourse which follows the shell-shaped square which is cordoned off with wooden fencing.
A thick layer of yellow earth (actually eroded tuff stone) is laid down over the 333 metres sandstone track on which the race will be run. A few days before the race, at 9 in the morning and at 9 in the evening precisely, trial runs are held so that the jockeys can get used to how the (mainly Arabian) horse perform on the dangerous track.
Before each race, a procession of Contradaioli (inhabitants of the neighbourhood) accompanies the horse into the Town hall courtyard together with the jockey in a sign of solidarity and unity. The horse is revered and admired; it is called by name as if human and considered the true protagonist of this challenge which must be overcome more by its sheer strength that the astuteness of the jockey.
Indeed, there is never any ruthlessness shown towards the animal which is not a mere instrument to be used without due consideration. The jockeys come from Maremma, N. Latium, Sardinia and from the area around Siena.
Their adherence to the strategy of the Contrada (decided by the Captain and his assistants or “mangini”) is sometimes sullied by attempts of corruption with devious manoeuvres; they have to be watched over carefully.
In a procession symbol to this date, a historical votive candle is taken in homage to the Duomo all’Assunta and following this act of devotion, the Palio (from the Latin Pallium meaning drape or standard), can be awarded to the victorious Contrada.
On the eve of the Palio, after the fifth of six general rehearsals, each Contrada organises its own propitiatory supper. Open-air tables are set; fiery speeches are delivered; last minute changes to the “behind the scenes” diplomacy are connived, giving rise to secret agreements or “partiti”.
Alliances are forged and rivalries are born between the Contrade. Everyone supports one and one alone of the ten runners, three of which are chosen by a draw and seven who have the right to participate always. In the morning of the great day, the Archbishop celebrates a Mass for the jockeys in the chapel at the base of the Torre del Mangia.
At ten o’clock the jockeys are assigned to their horses, putting an end to the rumours and whispers born during the rehearsals. Each Contrada officially declares its jockey and from that moment, no more changes can be made.
