Gastronomic itineraries of Siena
Posted on 25. Jun, 2010 by admin in Archive, Food & Wine, Itineraries
The Sienese cuisine is based on the typical ingredients “par excellence” of Mediterranean region: extra-virgin olive oil, wheat, fine meats, sheep cheeses, truffles, cured meats and vegetables. The simplicity and quality of these ingredients render the local dishes popular throughout the world.Many dishes are traditional to the homely-style cooking of the countryside; simple but tasty dishes such as the traditional soups flavoured with wild herbs, onions, leeks and celery.
Among the first courses, pappardelle (flat, wide ribbons of pasta) with hare or wild boar sauce triumph and in winter, prime-place is taken by the pappa al pomodoro, a tomato and bread soup. The panzanella takes over in summer— a dish made from dried bread softened in water and then flavoured with basil, onions and dressed with olive-oil and salt. Other Sienese country dishes are omelettes with zoccoli or pici which are thick home-made spaghetti—rather irregular and very tasty especially when served with a duck or meat sauce or even simpler, with breadcrumbs fried in a little olive-oil and salt, known locally as ‘la sbriciolata’.
A sumptuous yet simple second course is the famous bistecca alla fiorentina – Florentine Beefsteak on the bone—a must of Tuscan and therefore Sienese cuisine. The meat must be of the highest quality and must be taken from the loin of the Chianina cow (from the Valdichiana area), an ancient breed of cattle native to this region. It has a porcelain-white coat, long horns and is of considerable size. Experts have a series of hints to make this cut of beef taste better: it should never be thicker than two fingers, the bone should be the classical “T” shape and must weigh at least 700/800 gr. It should be cooked on an open flame and must not be pierced with a fork during cooking. Before serving, it should be left to sit for a couple of minutes on a covered plate so that its juices—due to the heat have concentrated in the centre of the cut—are redistributed evenly throughout the cut.
The traditional side-dish for this delicacy is a plate of baked white beans but it can also be accompanied with a fresh salad to contrast its strong taste. Other than these dishes, the traditional cuisine of the Siena region uses also much game such as guinea fowl, duck, pheasant, hare and wild boar, which are normally stewed according to ancient recipes passed down from Etruscan times. Other animals are also used in the local cuisine such as the maialino di cinta (a local breed of wild-boar) which is oven-roasted with prunes.
We must also mention the local wines produced on the nearby rolling hills which is renowned world-wide: Chianti, distinctive for its bouquet and harmonic fruity notes and full body and pleasing to the palate for its slight acidity and persistent taste and another red wine, the most famous Brunello. Then the white wines such as Vernaccia di San Gimigniano with its golden-yellow colour, penetrating yet fine bouquet and its dry, fresh and slightly sour aftertaste or the equally fine Valdarbia.
Where to eat in Siena – Recommended Restaurants
Here are some oenogastronomic itineraries, which will take you through the streets and alleys of the city where you can enjoy a special mix of good service and tradition dishes.
Wandering through Siena, we recommend supper with typical local dishes at Enoteca I Terzi. This restaurant is situated in a renovated tower from the 1200′s and is only 100m from the main square or the Piazza del Campo and offers a refined and elegant atmosphere. Wine is also served by the glass and both hot and cold dishes of the local cuisine are offered together with a fine selection of cold cuts and smoked/cured meats. A most pleasant and welcoming environment which is also visited by locals.
If you want to dine with a view of the Piazza del Campo then try one of the most renowned restaurants of the city, Al Mangia. One of the finest tourist destinations for its excellent location but the spectacle and incredible panorama is worth a small sacrifice as it is one of the more costly restaurants of the city. With the arrival of fine weather, tables are placed outside in the street and squares in front of the Palazzo Pubblico with the magnificent Piazza del Campo and the imposing Torre del Mangia as backdrop.
For a relaxing evening with a medieval atmosphere in a tuff-stone grotto with excellent local cuisine then you have to try the Taverna di San Giuseppe, the best location for authentic Tuscan meat dishes. A welcoming and characteristic restaurant with an atmosphere of “times long gone”. If you want to try some typical medieval Sienese dishes in an ambient in which ever detail faithfully reproduces the 11th and 12th centuries, including the staff dressed in period costume then this is the place to go. In a candle-lit atmosphere you can try a plate of pici with wild-boar sauce, sweet and sour duck, a special bean and black cabbage soup, ricotta, leek and broad-bean quiches and other simple yet wholesome dishes. The wine cellar is also well-stocked and the cost is modest for the quality of service and food.
Near the Piazza del Campo, we have the Osteria Le Logge – one of the most renowned restaurants in Siena which, in its two dining areas, has maintained the authentic furnishings of an antique pharmacy and is the meeting place for many famous guests who make a point of trying out the specialities of the house: Pecorino cheese ravioli, rabbit with mint, pici with cod-fish, duck with grapes or the Ricotta cheesecake with soft fruit.
For a quick taste of local cuisine and a good glass of wine then try Il Grattacielo, a charming little cafe with low ceilings in the heart of the city centre. This is where you will meet real locals. Here you can eat like in the taverns of times past: cold dishes, boiled potatoes with basil and the best basil marinated anchovies in town.
